Athens is a city that wears 3,000 years of history as casually as a linen shirt. The Acropolis dominates the skyline from almost every angle, and you can be standing in the ruins of a 5th-century BC marketplace one minute and sipping a craft cocktail on a rooftop bar the next. It is also the gateway to the Greek islands, making it a natural starting point for any trip to Greece.
The best time to visit is April through June or September through October. Summer (July and August) is intensely hot, often above 38 degrees Celsius, and the Acropolis in midday heat is punishing. Winter is mild (8 to 15 degrees) with occasional rain and very few tourists — museum visits are peaceful.
Plaka is the oldest neighborhood, a maze of narrow streets and neoclassical buildings at the foot of the Acropolis. Adjacent Monastiraki is livelier, with a flea market, street food, and views of the Acropolis and Ancient Agora. Psyrri is the nightlife and street art district. Exarchia is the alternative, politically charged neighborhood with the best independent bookshops and live music. Koukaki, just south of the Acropolis, is a residential gem with excellent tavernas.
Practical tips: buy the combined ticket that covers the Acropolis and six other archaeological sites (it is valid for five days). Visit the Acropolis first thing in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst heat and crowds. Metro Line 3 runs from the airport to the city center. Greek food is best at traditional tavernas — look for places with handwritten menus in Greek. Ouzo is served with meze (small plates) and ice water. Tipping 5 to 10 percent is appreciated.